Very unluckily for this time of year, we have had to take shelter in Patmos in a strong northerly, BF 6-7.These wind strengths, called the Meltemi, are often experienced in June/July/August and at this time of year are much less likely. They originate in the colder climate of the Balkans and Southern Russia and whistle down the Black Sea, Sea of Marmara, Dardanelles and down through the Aegean towards the warmer climate of the North African coast. With climate change the weather patterns are becoming much less predictable. We have had enough of this now and it’s really cold too!
There was a huge cruise ship alongside last night, Asian tourists spilling out, loud music and the horn tooting to try to encourage them back on board after a couple of hours. Then this morning a gigantic cruise ship dropped an anchor – the ferry boats went out to collect them to bring them to the coaches that take them up to the monastery. We chose not to join them – all 1300 of them in the tiny monastery! Perhaps there is a way of finding out online when the cruise ships are expected – our best source of information is Lefteris, the car hire guy who is becoming a great friend.
Instead, we spent the day exploring the north east end of Patmos island, first with a visit to the church in Kambos. An elderly lady was waiting patiently, holding the bell pulls and a young guy had a backpack of “bombs” which he warned us about. The excitement was the arrival of a very important icon, held by at least four strong men in the back of an open truck. The church bells rang out, the booms went off and the icon was taken into the church and blessed, then paraded around the village into the cafés and homes before moving on to the next village.
We drove along a tiny road to several beaches which are beautiful when it’s not so cold! A little monastery on the end of the promontory was the last point before turning back for lunch in George’s cafe, “Sea ‘n Sun” where we were given a big welcome and a delicious lunch.
That evening, we walked around Skala with the little alleyways, all the usual shops and cafés, ending up in a fish restaurant, Trehantiri Taverna. After the mezzes, there is only fish to eat, caught by the men of the family in the morning.
Bright and early the following morning, we set off in our little white car to the Monastery of Annunciation of St. Angel’s and Saint Amfilohius. It is the most peaceful, beautifully cared for, place on earth. The gardens, full of colour and a huge variety of plants, fall down towards the sea and the nuns have a spectacular view to the west. We were lucky that they opened the chapel and allowed us inside to view the splendid interior, not all of it glitzy. As we left the chapel, we were greeted by a woman, not a nun, who asked where we were from. We were almost in tears when she thanked us for helping her country. She is a Russian-speaking Ukrainian and fled from Ukraine a couple of years ago, now living here to help the nuns. Her determined and rapid explanation of the horrors of the war and the propaganda from the Russian side that they needed to “save” the Russians in Ukraine was well rehearsed and urgent. The contrast between her former life and the tranquility of the convent was hard for us to comprehend.
Afterwards, we went up to the Chora where the M’s explored the monastery of Saint John the Theologian and we sat in the square cuddling the cats. Off-season and without cruise ship tourists it is a beautiful spot.
And so to the final evening with the M’s on Dreamcatcher and we went back to the family restaurant, Pantelis, and sat inside looking at a huge mural of the whole town and Chora.
Dreamcatcher Log 